Alessandro Borghese feels Milanese for many reasons, especially emotional ones. "My wife Wilma Oliveiro, two wonderful daughters born here, work opportunities. It's a pragmatic and meritocratic city." Milanese for 15 years without the accent. His speech is very Roman and there's also a bit of Naples, from his father. At Corriere della Sera, the starred chef and fortunate host of many TV shows. But above all, he is a restaurateur.
Alessandro Borghese, what the chef said
And like many, he is targeted by untrue comments and judgments that can affect work, his own activity made of many, huge sacrifices. Especially if you end up in the sights of haters. In short, revenge reviews are dangerous, "they are a weapon. Today more than ever, there are those who use them in a vindictive or fierce way." Reviews? "Reviews have become a place to vent, for revenge, they are not constructive. They remain a huge advertising tool, the strongest. But it depends on how the weapon is used: everything can become fierce."
And it has also happened to him to receive them. "Of course. I put hearts even on the worst haters because, at almost 50 years old, I think I know my value and where I have arrived. I am more worried about an unsatisfied customer in the dining room."
When talking about him as a chef, as a face, one must necessarily take a step back. To his beginnings, not easy. "I would say laborious, especially when it was found out that my mother was an actress. I didn't say it but obviously it came out. And then: 'He is the son of Barbara Bouchet, what is he doing here? Why is he among potatoes and artichokes if he was born rich?' But I was not born rich. If you are labeled you create a name only with facts."
Winner of "4 restaurants" reports: "I can't find staff, no one wants to work on weekends"
In the meantime, in Milan, he is ready to open a new bistro connected to the Padel palace, opened a year ago with Diletta Leotta, Max Giusti, Junior Cally, Gabriele Corsi, and Umberto Chiaramonte. "I will wait there for the players: there will be a lot of street food. You go on the field, then beer and a big burger." But make no mistake: he doesn't play padel!
Is Milan a city for a few? "Milan is expensive but also affluent, there are those who can afford to go out for dinner several times a week. But I am also an entrepreneur who employs 40-50 people and I see the difficulty when I look for staff: for a young person to move is hard, maybe they have to wake up every morning at 5 because they live where the rent is affordable." And for this reason, Alessandro tries to treat his employees with special consideration: "I try to get a yes by offering, in addition to a contract with 13th and 14th-month pay, benefits and corporate welfare: meals at the restaurant, facilitated medical expenses, consultants for housing search, in-house lawyer for paperwork. I think I can say that my employees are happy, but we are always looking." But today what pays the most is free time. "The currency of exchange today is time: my generation made work a mission, 5 hours or 15 it didn't matter because we wanted to get there, now more freedom is sought: I can't blame them."
Direct question from Corriere della Sera: do you see less willingness to sacrifice? Ready answer from Borghese: "Not always but in some cases yes. Salaries at the beginning are what they are, without experience exaggerated demands are not correct: I am ready to give you more in a perspective of growth and meritocracy."
Alessandro Borghese does not back down and also talks about figures: "Whoever arrives without experience starts with 1,200 euros net, but with extras (an hour to clean, the banquet that lasts a bit longer) it also goes up to 1,600 euros." With him, no one works for free, not even interns but "not everyone does this: if you notice huge brigades and a dining room that does 30 covers be sure that half of the people are not paid." Unfortunately, "the restaurant industry is spoiled by under-the-table work and promises."
HIS KITCHEN
At home, he tends not to cook. "Only under celebration or threat: I am the Christmas cook, the Easter grill master. For the rest, I am lucky to have my mother-in-law Renata who is very good: in the kitchen, she commands." A passion for cooking born from his father. "My father, a good Neapolitan, always cooked on Sundays. My gastronomic vein is born here: not going out on Sunday and following him in his gastronomic adventures."
Before returning to Italy, Alessandro Borghese was shipwrecked in Africa, on the Achille Lauro, the one that was hijacked at the port of Naples. "We sank on November 30, '94 off the coast of Somalia. An engine exploded, two died. There were 180 crew members and about 700 passengers." He was saved on a raft.
He said no to China to stay in Rome, then to Milan and become a television face. Thanks to his mother, among other things, who sent a demo to Discovery. Never afraid of the camera: "At my house came Tognazzi, Mastroianni, Placido. I was quite used to it but getting on TV was a coincidence."
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